Three years ago (summer of 2011), I traveled to Florence, Italy with my parents and sister—the vibrant culture was palpable even upon entering the city with its tall, pale yellow buildings and horrendous traffic. I couldn’t believe there was so much vehicle traffic, the hallmark of globalization, in a city that was so antiquated, artistic, and rustic feeling. I fondly remember an old Italian lady with wiry gray hair shaking her little fist at our car as we pulled out in front of her small, green tomato truck! Our hotel, Hotel Elite, was on the second story of an apartment style building on a small, cobble-stoned street. I could practically smell the “oldness” in the air; indeed, Florence was founded during the days of the Roman Empire and broke up into competing city states during the Middle Ages. However, the city of Florence is not known for the Roman commercial activity/amphitheatre of the 1-5th centuries, but rather its emergence as the cultural capital of Europe during the 15th century Renaissance. This rebirth of Roman and Greek ideals, humanism, and the increasing importance of the middle class started in Florence with the patronage of the wealthy Medici Family. Artists ditched the flat, gold Byzantine icons and painted bodies realistically (if not ideally). Read my article on the Medici’s Palazzo Medici here. I could definitely detect the classical artistic strain as I strolled down the street with my family, noticing brick façade buildings, marble statues in niches, and tourist reproductions of David everywhere.
       The first day, August 4th, I went to the Basilica of Santa Croce, a Franciscan church finished in 1434—masters such as Michelangelo, Galileo, and Machiavelli are buried here (although I foolishly did not know it at the time). The Basilica was beautiful, especially the Gothic façade with its green marble encrustation, pointed arches, and horizontal thrust. The neatest aspect was the tombs that were literally carved into the floor. They were smooth and barely discernible because of the countless number of people who have shuffled over them in 600 years. Stained glass windows displaying Old Testament figures and crucifixes as well as frescoes by Giotto filled the Holy interior. My sister was even forced to buy one of those awful blue bag dresses to cover her legs (her shorts were too short!) We walked into a courtyard in the interior of the complex and saw the Renaissance façade of the Pazzi Chapel (designed by Brunelleschi). Once again, I was 14 and ignorant and didn't know who Brunelleschi was, so we didn't go in. However, we did stroll on the famous Ponte Vecchi, the “Old Bridge” with upscale shops dangling over the side like edificial flower-boxes. For lunch and snack, we simply ate gelato--our hotels and plane tickets were quite expensive (and no restaurants were open past 3 pm because of the siesta!) We devoured margarita pizzas though around 8 pm (practically the only food I ate….)

Facade of Santa Croce Piazza della Signoria

       On August 15th, I saw the one statue that has captivated and enthralled me for two years now: David, by Michelangelo in the Gallerie della Accademia. This mammoth of marble was carved in 1501 and is the epitome of Renaissance idealism. Florence identified with David the most in the 15th and 16th centuries because it was waging a war against other Italian city-states (i.e. Milan). Like David, they were the underdogs but overcame their adversaries with skill and strength. David is extremely tall with exaggerated hands and feet to show power; his eyes also stare off in opposite directions. Continuing the Renaissance fest, my family and I walked to the Duomo of Florence and witnessed Brunelleschi’s mastery. Before the Duomo, we crossed the Piazza della Signoria, sharing the winding street with the amazing Uffizi statues of the Renaissance giants (i.e. Donatello, Machiavelli, etc) and swarming tourists. Giotto’s campanile (bell tower) was impressive, considering it was designed before Brunelleschi crashed into the architecture scene with his radical ideas. Again, the façade had green marble encrustation and smaller brick domes. Although I hate to admit it, I wasn't too wowed by the interior of the Cathedral (I thought Santa Croce was neater). I love the picture below because one can just see the brick dome with the golden orbed-lantern peeking out from behind the campanile. After a much needed siesta (it was so hot outside!) and gelato, we hiked up to the Piazzolla Michelangelo. This square was designed by Giuseppe Poggi in 1869. It was simply stunning, beautiful, unreal, and panoramic—I could see the Piazza della Signoria, the Duomo, Santa Croce, and whole landscape of Florence. There was a bronze sculpture of David in the center (hence the square’s name) and Italian vendors crowding the center.