Religious Crawl Throughout Germany and Switzerland

by

Mackenzie Patel

Hello World Travelers! Because I am an art history fanatic, I stumbled into the holy depths of several churches and cathedrals during my two weeks abroad. Europe is littered with them, and on nearly every major square in a bustling European metropolis, one is sure to find the pointed gothic arches, Romanesque darkness, and sumptuous images of the divine. In all, I visited six religious institutions and was stunned by all of them because of their soaring architecture and the hush of silence that enveloped me in a veil when I entered.

The first place I explored was the Benedictine Monastery of Engelberg nestled in a lush valley and cradled by the beauty of the Alps. Read more about the idyllic world of Engelberg here. The Abbey was established in 1120 CE and served as the beautiful holy sector of the small Swiss town. It was founded by Konrad von Sellenbüren in the 12^th century and has withstood the political, cultural, and environmental (i.e. floods) upheavals throughout the ages. Interestingly, I discovered the monks from this particular monastery established similar institutions in the United States, most notably in Oregon and Missouri. The actual chapel was small, but ornate, the Baroque interior dripping with gold leaf, plaster lace, and detailed oil paintings framed by salmon columns. It was so light and uplifting, as if the angels that gave Engelberg its unique name inhabit this cornerstone of perfection as well. When leaving the monastery, the incredible view that I saw was the Alps, the tumbling green hills dotted with cattle, and the imposing shadow of Mount Titlis. The other chapel in Switzerland that I ventured around in was St. Peter’s Chapel in the peculiar city of Luzern. I say that it is peculiar because it manages to exude an air of modernity (i.e. the Rosengart Museum), yet it is also colored by the antiquated, especially the old quarter of town. St. Peter’s Chapel was built in 1178 and is located in the famed Kapellplatz, an area close to the iconic Chapel Bridge that connects the two halves of Luzern.

My favorite Cathedral that I visited on this trip was undoubtedly Speyer Cathedral. Located in a small town bearing the same name, this holy monstrosity is the archetype for German Romanesque architecture (although Gothic renovations were added later on). Construction began around 1106 CE under Holy Roman Emperor Conrad II, and much like La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, I found this Cathedral so emotionally stirring, dizzyingly high, and filtered through natural light. The mauve masonry was just flooring, as well as the brick arches that lined the ribbed ceiling like erect dominos. The symmetry, the incredible height, and the attention to detail was so amazing, considering this was crafted during the medieval period. The Westwork (two towers) and the heavy apse (the semicircular niche embedded into the West side) were the truly Romanesque elements, while the opposite façade with the rose window contained early gothic aspects. Countless German princes graced this Cathedral with their dusty bones, but after the fourth Conrad or Friedrich, I lost count. I learned about this monumental collection of talent and stones in my AP Art History class junior year, and I couldn’t forget its red hue and sense of the divine.

After my two hour jaunt in Speyer (in which I also went to a cozy outdoor beer garden and bought 2 euro steins), I next went to the town of Bacharach which overlooks the expansive Rhine River. Medieval in origin but polluted with modern tourists with selfie sticks today, I nonetheless enjoyed this small hamlet immensely. One of the main highlights was the Lutheran Church of St. Peter, a small house of medieval worship that was built around 1230 CE. Because of numerous renovations throughout the centuries, this eclectic Church housed Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles. Like the tour-de-force of Speyer, this building also had overtones of red and coral (although the interior was not nearly as high and filled with natural sunlight). Interestingly, there were a few Romanesque era frescoes that still remained in viewable condition because they were plastered over during the Gothic phases of reconstruction. However, it wasn’t the round, thick arches, the few groin vaults that made the ceiling appear decorative and weightless, or the epitaphs of deceased German noblemen that made me fall in love with this complex. For above this earthly Church, buried higher up in the rocky hills that eventually lead to a renovated castle, was the ethereal and slightly eerie Wernerkapelle (13^th century). According to legend, Werner was a local boy whose sexually abused body was washed upon the pebbly shores of Bacharach. His name was affixed to this Gothic edifice that took 140 years to construct on the hilly terrain. Walking up to this immensely holed ruin was like navigating the winding streets of Pisa, Italy and then finally turning a corner to behold all of the Leaning Tower at one time.  The Chapel, half of which was gone or crumbling severely, featured burnt red brick and a stunning view of the snaking Rhine River. The feeling I had when looking at this was uneasy; it seemed ravaged by war and bombs, not by mere time and a lack of strong materials during the Middle Ages….but definitely do not skip walking the 100 or so steps that lead from the back of St. Peter’s church for this ghost of a Chapel!

Because Germany has an affinity for towns that start with “B” and also end in “-burg” or “-berg,” I next explored the historically rich city of Bamberg. Featuring aquatic town halls, geometric rose gardens, and a network of canals lovingly called “Little Venice,” it also had a Cathedral built in the (surprise, surprise), Gothic/Romanesque style. The original Cathedral was built around 1002 by Heinrich II, but due to multiple fires, no one architectural style dominated the massive complex. Rather, a jumble of periods all meshed to create a nonetheless stunning Cathedral that also served as northernmost final resting place for a Pope (Pope Clement II)! Although I found this Church lovely and a building wonder, I disliked the dark stone and the creepy feeling that seemed to descend upon me in the short time I was there. It was NOTHING like La Sagrada Familia or Speyer which were open and overflowing with sunlight.

Finally, the last Cathedral on my religious crawl throughout Germany/Switzerland was the Berliner Dom in the center of Germany’s swanky and historically vibrant capital. Renovated in the Neo-Baroque style during the 18^th and 19^th century, this lavish (and somewhat pretentious) building was similar to St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican (although not nearly as spacious). The original Church was built around 1465, but after several elevations of status, it became the center of Protestantism in Germany and one of the largest Cathedrals in Europe. Yes, the façade was absolutely breath-taking and perfect for a photo backdrop, but this impressive Dom was not my favorite one on the trip. First of all, all guests had to pay 7 euros just to enter the opulent place of worship. The other five churches (and mostly all of the other ones I have been to in Europe) were free because houses of the holy are supposed to be accessible to all. Also, the money used to finance the intricate mosaics, the hundreds of fluted Corinthian columns, the gold-leafed dome, and the throne-like pulpit could have been used to actually help people. One of my biggest annoyances is religious architectural luxury, although I did enjoy drinking in the stunning space and massive sculptures. I find it interesting that Protestantism is against such displays of wealth yet their epicenter of influence in Germany is loaded with it. However, the Berliner Dom is on Museum Island, a floating world of culture famous throughout the world for the five museums harbored there (most notably the Pergamon and Neues Museums).  So, if you’re feeling like religion is getting too sumptuous and hypocritical for you, hop on over to the island to see the Bust of Nefertiti, the Ishtar Gate, or the Market Gate of Miletus!